Le Printemps

Nevers has begun to try on spring, and boy does it look good. Of course, it's not sure if it wants to go there quite yet, but maybe with a little coaxing and not too much jinxing, it will stick around.

Le printemps (spring) is arguably the best time to be anywhere in France, not just Nevers. As anywhere, flowers bloom, birds sing, the sun shines, and everyone is happy. Yet the french are particularly adept at setting up tables and chairs dehors sur la terrasse (outside on the patio/terrace). Cafés are filled not with people simply looking for anywhere to go but their own home, but with groups of friends joyously sipping une limonade (lemon-lime soda) or other refreshing boisson (drink). Furthermore, the terrasse is populated not only by the smokers forced outside by the 2008 law prohibiting smoking indoors, but also by people simply looking to enjoy the weather. Springtime opens one's choices on la carte (the menu) away from simply expresso, café au lait et chocolat chaud (espresso, latte, and hot chocolate) to include the lighter, more refreshing and often fizzier offerings such as perrier, orangina et sirop à la menthe (Perrier, Orangina, and mint-flavored syrup diluted into soda water). Cafés in France, as in many European countries, often organize their chairs such that everyone has a view of the street and the passers-by. In Nevers, the nicest terraces ca be found at Café Ag--see previous blog post--, Café Carnot and Café Au Bureau. There may not be a surabondance (overabundance) of terrasses sympathiques (nice terraces), but the ones that exist suffice nicely.

Beyond the tried-and-true yet luxurious terrace of a café, where one is obliged to payer sa consommation (pay for something to eat or drink), France offers something splendid for the spring when il fait beau (the weather is nice): parks! While Americans tend to underestimate parks, finding them either too costly to maintain or only interesting for small children who want to run around, the french demand outdoor spaces that are agréables, propres, bien amménagées, jolies et pleines de plantations (pleasant, clean, well planned out, pretty, and full of plants. There is even a national recognition for parks and gardens that go above and beyond these normally high expectations, called Jardin remarquable (Noteworthy Garden). Parks are the common ground and right of all people. Sure, France may also offer socialized health care, but parks existed well before the social state. Since many french cities have resisted the suburban sprawl that is so common in the US, french homes are often simply apartments that might not have a large yard. Thus, to walk the dog, let the kids out to play, or simply go for a stroll, people tend to head towards public spaces. Whereas Americans prefer to set up a nice playground or fountain in their own residential neighborhoods, keeping the fruits of their own hard work to themselves, the french live in urban communities and demand their municipal and local governments to provide nice spaces dont tout le monde peut profiter (that everyone can enjoy). Park benches are not decorative elements but rather are useful endroits (places) to read the journal (newspaper), write in one's journal intime (diary), or take a short break to have a conversation.

Nevers is dominated by one large, rectangular park, mentioned in the previous post, Parc Roger Salengro. Once a controversial head of the socialist party in France, Monsieur Salengro has been immortalized by a very classical collection of round things: a kiosque (gazebo), a fontaine (fountain) and a manège (carousel). These things are all typical of and indispensable to any french park. The elements of the park that are more unique to Nevers? Two groupings of statues: one lone ours polaire (polar bear) and une famille de cinq sangliers (a family of five wild boars). Why such animals? Do they play some part in local history or interest? No, they were simply the winners of public art contests when the city was searching to imbue the city with public art for contemplation. You've got to use those park benches to think about something, you know. This year, at the beginning of spring, as anywhere in Nevers, one can head to the park to see it dominated by two major sectors of the population: derelict teenagers and quaint octogenarians. My personal favorite thing to do in the park, since I don't like to trainer (hang out) there too long is run laps around the criss-crossing paths, to the bewilderment, I'm sure, of the many people enjoying calmer and less taxing activities-- ones that can be done wearing high heels and without breaking a sweat. I'm sure as the weather continues to get warmer, the park will only continue to host more and more picnics, skateboard competitions and rendezvous amoureux (dates, although it sounds so much more exotic in French).

The other wonderful place to take advantage of an outdoor lifestyle à la française (in the french way) is au bord de la Loire (along the banks of the Loire River). The town, thanks to its medieval heritage, is situated high atop the hill that dominates over the river, not really reaching down to the steep slopes. Many people have complained that the river is not mise en valeur (honnored), since there are no shops, restaurants, or other commercial activity that would draw people to spend time near it. In fact, along much of the Loire the city has created parkings publics (public parking lots) in order to get the cars out of the busy centre ville (city center). Yet there is still much to be appreciated and enjoyed if one only has the time to step out of the more-populated commercial area. All along the Loire are benches, again for sitting, thinking, occasionally taking a nap in the sun, conversing with friends or strangers, and reading the paper. In between the benches are many planted bulb flowers: the jonquils (daffodils) are in bloom now. There is a canoe shack for renting canoes, fishing is legal with a permit, and many pépés (old men, like grandpas) come to a small clearing to jouer aux boules (play a lawnbowling game that resembles bocce). At the outer stretches of the city there is a wooded park area with beautiful shady spots. Since the Loire is not exactly the center of the city, there's no noise but the rushing sounds of a strong current. The two bridges that cross the river, one for trains and the other for cars, certainly add to the 19th-century charm that much of the city exudes. One can imagine, thanks to some cleverly-placed tourist plaques, the artistic retreat that the Dutch painter Jongkind spent in the Hôtel St Louis in the 1860s, which still exists as a restaurant on a busy river-front traffic intersection. Down by the Loire is a great place to see active couples walking their dogs, pushing strollers, going for a run, and enjoying the sun.

What is the downside to all of this urban/pastoral springtime bliss? Personne n'a envie d'aller travailler ! (No one feels like going to work!) Students can be even more tempted than usual to stare out the window or even forget to show up for class. Spring in France is the season with the highest concentration of long weekends, plus students have two two-week long breaks, all as they are preparing for their baccalaureat (high school diploma with nationally standardized exams).

But, for now, to quote some graffiti on a fence at Université de Toulouse II- le Mirail (The Humanities university in Toulouse), "manger sur l'herbe,/ dépechez-vous/ bientôt l'herbe/ mangera sur vous ! -Jacques Prévert (Eat on the grass,/ hurry up/ soon the grass/ will be eating you!- Jacques Prévert). I think it's time for a pique-nique (picnic)!